Method of making shoes.



K. ENGEL.

METHOD OF MAKING SHGES.

APPLICATION FILED Dec Patented! Nov. 13, 1917.

UNITED STATES ATNT QFETG KARL ENGEL, OF ARLINGTON, MASSACHUSETTS,ASSIGNOR TO UNITED SHOE MACHIN- ERY COMPANY, OF PATERSON, NEW JERSEY, ACORPORATION OF NEW JERSEY.

METHOD OF MAKING SHOES.

Specification of Letters Patent. Patented NOV. 13, 1917.

Application filed December 2, 191 Serial No. 875,126.

To (ZZZ whom it may concern:

Be it known that I, KARL Enonn, a citizen of the United States, residingat Arlington, in the county of Middlesex and State of M assachusetts,have invented certain Improve ments in Methods of Making Shoes, of whichthe following description, in connection with the accompanying drawings,is a specification, like reference characters on the drawings indicatinglike parts in the several figures.

This invention relates to methods of making shoes and particularly to a.novel method of making welt shoes. In general the invention aims toproduce a serviceable and neat appearing shoe which can be manufacturedat a low cost and not'only with compara tively unskilled labor but alsowith less labor than is ordinarily required to produce a shoe of thesame grade. More particularly the invention aims to construct a shoewhich has the principal advantages of the well known Goodyear welt shoeand in addition is possessed of greater flexibility than said Goodyearshoe.

The invention in its various aspects will now be more particularlydescribed in connection with the accompanying drawings which illustratethe different steps, and will then be pointed out in the claims.

Figure 1 is a perspective view of an insole made in accordance with thisinvention;

Fig. 2 is a perspective view of a last upon which the shoe mayconveniently be made; and

Fig :1 perspective view, partly in section, showing the prepared upperin lasted posit ion on the last and ready to receive the outsole.

Tn carrying out the novel process of the invention a shoe upper 2 isfirst cut out substantially to its iinal outlines or to such size thatthe lower edge of the upper along the shank and at the forepart willterminate substantiall y at the last edge, thereby saving the upperleather ordinarily provided to attach the upper to the insole and whichis trimmed oil in later operations. The toe and heel portions of thisupper together with the toe and heel stiffen-erg are then molded,preferably by the processes described respectively in my United StatesLetters latent Nos. 947,895 and 1,001,745, to the shapes which theseparts assume in the finished shoe. In order to provide sufficientmaterial to enable the upper 2 to be tensioned and lasted over upon theinsole and also for securing it to an insole, a narrow strip of strongcanvas 3 is attached to the lower edge of the molded upper through theshank and about the forepart or in a lined shoe the lining may beextended beyond the lower edge of the upper and secured to its marginalportion. This canvas strip 3 as herein shown is secured by stitches 5 tothe inner face or" the molded upper 2 along its lower edge so that itprojects a considerable distance beyond said edge, a Welt 6 is alsosecured, preferably by the same stitches 5, along the lower edge of themolded upper 2 upon the outside thereof. The welt (3 extends through theshank and about the forepart of the upper and is secured along its inneredge so as to project outwardly.

The insole to which the molded upper 2 is secured is made in two partsso that a fastening clenching plate may be located between these partsto clench the upper securing fastenings which pass through one part ofthe insole, whereby these clenched fastenings may be covered in theshank and forepart'of the finished shoe by the other part of the insoleand thus provide a smooth interior for the shoe. To his end theillustrated insole comprises preferably an upper flap 8 of canvas orsimilar material to which the upper is secured, and a lower flap 9 ofleather attached to the main sole only at the toe end thereof by cementor other suitable means and terminating approximately at the forwardedge of the heel seat, although an insole of leather split from theforward edge oi the heel seat toward the toe thereof and terminatingshort of the toe end or an insole 0:! other suitable material may alsobe employed. I

It has been found advantageous to provide the last 12 upon which theshoe is made With a clenching plate for the purposes above pointed outand 0 this end a sheet metal plate 13, shaped to the contour of thebottom face of the last and terminating short of the toe end thereof, issecured. to the bottom of the last, at the heel portion only, by therivets 16. The portion of the bottom face of the last extending beyondthe forward edge of the plate is provided with an additional plate 18secured directly to the bottomv of the last by the rivets 19.

The novel last disclosed herein as used in practising the process of thepresent inven- 5 Q 5 Mm z w 6 1 1L Q 5 U H My 1 1 .i 1

S E v Q 1 a. as 1. m. r u L M n v "a 5; walk 125 vement scumn mpm arovmmd the "0 the iii 1 a G r6 R m Am 10 PM last, locating a clenching platebetween the flaps of said insole, lasting the upper over the insole andclenching the lasting fastenings upon said: plate, and securing anoutone or more points to give it the form of a.

lasted upper, securing a lasting strip to the lower edge of said upperso that it projects beyond the edge thereof, assembling an insole andsaid upper upon a last, lasting said upper over the insole with the aidof said strip, securing the upper through said strip to the insole andattaching an outsole to said upper.

7. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in moldingto its final shape the toe and heel ends of a shoe upper which is cut tosuch a size that its lower edge terminates substantially at the lastedge, permanently securing to the lower edge ofzsaid upper an extensionstrip for lasting and a welt strip, providing an insole, assembling saidupper and said insole upon a last, lasting said upper over said insole,securing the upper by said strip to the insole and attaching an outsoleto said welt.

8. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in cuttinga shoe upper substantially to its final outline, permanently sec iringto the upper along its lower marginal edge a' lasting strip whichextends bevond the lower edge of the upper, securing a welt strip to thelower marginal edge of the upper along its inner edge, assembling theupper upon a lasttogether with 'an insole,']asting the upper andsecuring it in lasted position to the insole by the lasting strip, andattaching an outsole to the welt;

9. That improvement in the art of making shoes which consists in cuttinga shoe up er substantially to its final outline, molding the toe end ofthe upper to the shape desired in the finished shoe, permanentlysecuring t0 the lower marginal edge of the upper a lasting strip whichextends beyond the outer edge of the upper and a welt strip, providingan insole, assembling the upper and the insole upon a last, lasting theupper and securing it in lasted position to the insole by the lastingstrip, and attaching an outsole to the welt.

In testimony whereof I have signed my name to this specification in thepresence of two subscribing witnesses.

KARL ENGEL.

Witnesses:

, WALTER BRANDT,

H. DORSEY SPENCER

